Yet Another P0017 Issue! Sorry!

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j8manski

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Hi All! Read through a few posts, but still cant quote find an answer for my issue.

To start I have a 2015 Equinox with a 2.4L with 140K miles.

Last year I had some timing chain noise on start up. Brough it to my mechanic and he said low on oil. Just over 2qts in engine. Assumed I did a bad oil change at home and counted quarts wrong and was low as there are no obvious signs of oil leaks or oil burning. Did a oil chance, and all was well.

The next few oil changes I did at 3k miles each. Hard for me to track how much come out cause it dumps into a 20qt container.

About 9 months later we are driving down the highway and engine lost power for a split second then regained it then continues driving fine for the last mile to the exit. At the exit it was idling ROUGH. Made it another mile to the gas station and added 3 qts of oil. I KNOW my last oil change wasn't counted wrong as I specifically bought a 5qt oil jug instead of my 6 gallon box I normally buy. This is when i realized I really needed to watch oil level through oil changes. This is also the time the CEL came on for P0016 and P0017. However in the coming weeks the engine just kept randomly clunking at idle(guides breaking apart) and would return to normal. Over time engine became sluggish.

Finally got into the engine to replace Balance chain, guides, tensioner and timing chain, guides, tensioner, Phasers and solenoids, gaskets(All items ACDELCO). I did all this. Took pictures of my timing marks after checking for idk.... 11 times lol All is good. Engine has significantly more power, not 100% though. And idle smooth as can be. But. I have P0017 still. Upon opening cover I found all large pieces of the front guide, so don't think I have any pieces in the pickup. Upon removal of the old solenoids, the center screens had a layer of plastic shavings(likely from the front guide being ground away from chain). One other thing I made note of., but not 100% if its an issue, is the reluctor ring on the exhaust CAM. I read this can possibly slip according to a TSB(however never found anyone ever saying they did have one slip), and cause your exhaust to be read as if it were not timed right. I have attached a picture of the ring to show what I am talking about. The last Lobe on the camshaft is inline with a "seam" line from manufacturing, which looks like its supposed to be offset 3ish* counterclockwise from a notch on the ring, where mine looks to be more inline.

Took it all apart again. And re-did timing. Again checked it 17 times this time, have pictures. And still afterwards I have P0017.

After timing chain and computer reset. P0017 is an instant pending code upon restart. And shortly after(few minutes of idle or 1/4 mile drive) it sets and is on.

I went to my mechanic and used his scan tool(Much nicer then mine). We tried to do a cam/crank relearn but would NOT hit fuel cut off. Took a dozen or so computer resets to get the relearn to work and hit fuel cut off. Finally test passed. Still, P0017 returns in same manner.

I then went and viewed live data while engine runs. Intake idles around 5* i think. The desire position is 5*, the commanded position is 5* and the actual position is 5*. All is great. The exhaust on the other hand. Desired is at 0*, the commanded is at 0*, and the actual is at 0*. No matter what revving I do, no matter what brake and drive revving I did I could not get exhaust to change. Intake would change constantly but all matched(desired, commanded, actual). So did exhaust, but always 0*. I ran all this date with CEL on and also with resetting CEL, results were the same.

I also ran phaser tests. You can command a phased * and the computer will do it. I didn't have much luck because the computer kicks you out of tests when there is a pending CEL. And being P0017 is pending almost immediately, I have only a few seconds to test. I can command the intake from 0*-25* and it did all of them(5* incriments). The exhaust on the other hand just didn't listen to my commands. I would command 5*. But the computer would not command 5*, it did not desire 5* and was in actual 0*. Almost as if the computer would not take my command at all.

I then ran a valve test. This is an engine off test. Again only have a few seconds as the P0017 is instantly pending upon rest(i think this is a permanent code?). This test just turns the valves on or off. When running these tests on both intake and exhaust, they both seem to be working fine. When I turn valves on, the computer sees them turning on, and same with off.

The last thing I can think to add is the position sensors. They both seem to be working fine as well. When the engine is running the scanner can see the counts of each sensor. Counting up to 250, then resetting to 0, and starts over. If comparing intake to exhaust, they should both count equally at the same rate side by side as intake and exhaust spin at same RPM. When viewed side by side and revving engine up and down, the counts are identical. This shows the computer sees the data from the sensors and that both sensors are working perfectly.

My question is. Why is P0017 showing so quick? P0017 is a cam/crank correlation between exhaust cam and crank. This means they are not able to be desirable. However. All my data shows is that is is all desirable. So why is it saying its not? It wants the exhaust cam at 0* and its actually at 0*. If my reluctor ring spun, the engine would show that the exhaust CAM were NOT at 0* like it is currently timed too with the chain, it would show it offset whatever deg the ring was spun too. The computer should be showing me this infor. Again, I have no solid answer as to weather or not my ring spun, but this is the only piece of information that was a grey area for me, but the computer data seems to be proving that it is fine.

I hope someone else has had this issue and can help! If not, more brains is better then 1..... or 3.... Im lost, my mechanic is lost and a friend whos an engineer who worked at GM in the lab that worked on the valve train for these engines is lost too lol I have attached pictures of my timing marks, the reluctor ring with lobe, seam, gap alignment, and a new stock photo to compare. Thank you all!

EDIT: Added snap shots of the scan tool. First shows exhaust and intake position sensor counters side by side. At the beginning its counting consistent at idle. I then rev engine a few times and you can see they both react the same and the counts count quicker. The second picture is showing the computers desired location, along with its actual location and can see that they match.
 

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j8manski

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Well tha k you for reading the post at least. And thank you for the compliment.

Iv been thinking about this a lot. Also watching some youtube videos, one really good one where a guy is diagnosing a p0017 and is documenting it very well. He has 4 videos innit and iv only watched 2 so far. But maybe the computer isnt showing the exhaust cam position where it's supposed to he from factory. Maybe it's only showing the desired offset from its current location? Even thought my reluctor ring may be rotated 20 degrees(exageration), the computer is seeing the exhaust is off by 20* from crank and is throwing the code and locking me out of adjust angle in the computer test. And its locked to 0*.... which is 0* offset from current. And that is why its desiring 0* is because the cam/crank correlation is off too much that it doesnt even want to offset the cam at all?

I have no idea how the computer displays this info, so this is all just a guess. I still need to finish the other videos as they may shed some light on this idea. Curious what others think?
 

corvairbob

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ok for the hell of it move that sensor to the front cam and see if the fault follows it your cam ring looks good to me here is a 2010 exhaust cam from rock auto and the ring looks like it is aligned to the exhaust lobes to me. but if you move the sensor and the fault moves then you have a bad sensor. also, make sure the connection is good and one of the pins is not broken or pushed back int the connector. but based on the scope i wonder if the sensor is bad
 

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corvairbob

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also, you have had the guides break di you take the pan off and clean the oil pickup this is what i found in mine if you take the pan off when you put it back get some motorcycle case sealer. if you try rtv you will be doing this again. been there done that 2 times
 

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TopHat

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I had a Lincoln MKT, 2013, with dual sensors for the twin turbo engine. It was poorly designed with only one timing chain to handle everything. Ford rather quietly strengthened all the timing chain components as well as made the engine 2 timing chains. Then the engine was terrific. Meantime all it's older engines would often get that P0017 reading even when nothing was wrong. I replaced both sensors and problem solved. My point is consider replacing the sensor; it's cheap even if it doesn't solve the problem but it might.

I am bit shocked with your good explanation of your situation that you didn't ensure correct quantities of oil were added. Too much or too little oil is going to be a problem. Glad you got that under control.

My daughter's 2019 Equinox has had only one issue and that was because a mechanic failed to reattach properly the Air Cleaner To Intake Outlet Duct Tube Hose. Came off during a long trip and ran very rough.

I'd love to hear your final solution.
 

corvairbob

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just so you know that engine does not have an open oil to crank. there is a separator there it is the lower block that holds the crank to the upper block that works as a big windage tray so if you did manage to get a qt or 2 extra not much will happen. but if the oil gets low the first thing that shows up is the vvt phaser solenoids they need a bit more pressure and they start to fault out given some weird codes. as far as buying a new cam sensor that is why i said to move it to the intake if that sensor is bad the fault will follow.
 

TexasAggie

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Well tha k you for reading the post at least. And thank you for the compliment.

Iv been thinking about this a lot. Also watching some youtube videos, one really good one where a guy is diagnosing a p0017 and is documenting it very well. He has 4 videos innit and iv only watched 2 so far. But maybe the computer isnt showing the exhaust cam position where it's supposed to he from factory. Maybe it's only showing the desired offset from its current location? Even thought my reluctor ring may be rotated 20 degrees(exageration), the computer is seeing the exhaust is off by 20* from crank and is throwing the code and locking me out of adjust angle in the computer test. And its locked to 0*.... which is 0* offset from current. And that is why its desiring 0* is because the cam/crank correlation is off too much that it doesnt even want to offset the cam at all?

I have no idea how the computer displays this info, so this is all just a guess. I still need to finish the other videos as they may shed some light on this idea. Curious what others think?
Can you post the links to videos? I have a 2010 Qox with V6 that has P0017 pop on and then off randomly. Sometimes it is on for a few days, then goes off by itself and stays off for days. Sometimes it can go on and off in the same day. I can reset it and it will stay off for a period, then come back on. If I do not manually reset it it will go off by itself, but then come on again later. Based on what I am seeing, I believe that I may have a faulty sensor, but do not know which sensor. I do not get any other error codes but P0017. Any advice would be great. I would also like to watch the video to help me troubleshoot. The engine is running fine and has full power and acceleration.

Can some one explain what trips P0017? Is it one sensor or could it be two where one is compared to another and if they do not agree then it trips the error code?

Thanks
 

NOX4ME

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Poo16 and P0017 are codes for the camshaft and crankshaft sensors. Were they ever replaced?
 

j8manski

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Hey All! Thank you for all the replies! Will respond to each of you. I will also update all of you when I find the solutions and any updates I do along the way.

Corvairbob
I will try switching the sensors in the next few days, and if not by the weekend. This is a easy check to do before I dive into the cam repair. As for the picture you sent of the camshaft, the lobes closest to the reluctor ring are aligned to the top side of the small notch, where mine is more aligned to the bottom side of the same notch. You said based on the scope, you wonder if the sensor is bad. What makes you say this? Both sensors are reading the exact same. That isn't a scope, that is a graph of the counts of revolution the sensors are counting. The graph climbs up as it counts up to 250, then at 250, the counter resets which is the steep drop off. Then it starts counting up again. You can see the first few counts to 250 are steady, then can see they get steeper and closer together, this was me revving the engine to see if faster RPMs made the senor misread at all. It didn't, it read perfectly through all RPMs which is why the graph gets clusters as its counting faster dur to the revving of the engine.
I did not drop the oil pan. However I have 95% of the broken guide, the other 5% is what was sanded off by the timing chain. There shouldn't be any large debris down there as I am able to account for the guide.

Tophat
I am going to try switching the sensor with the intake and exhaust sensors and see if the code changes. Like I said, with using the scan tool and seeing the count output from the sensors, I find it hard to believe its not working as the counts wouldn't match. But, it is an easy test and cheap like you say. As for not knowing how much oil I put in my cars. I don't think I ever shorted my oil changes. I think the car is burning much more oil then I had thought, because after the first time of running low, my next oil change I used a 5qt container so I know I couldn't have counted wrong at all. And I ran into the final issue of low oil after that last oil change at 55% oil life, which was way sooner then I thought I would need to check oil. I buy 6 gallon "sack"(almost like boxed wine) of oil and use a 1 qt container to transfer oil with. My mechanic after the first time thought I counted wrong and only put half the amount of oil in. I do not think that was the case at all now that I am seeing how much oil I need to add. I am adding roughly 1qt every 20%-25% of oil life used.
The video I watched is at the end of this post. Its actually a series of 4 videos. It was very helpful to see that from the beginning to the end the Cam/crank correlation changed by 8*, yet his scan tool continued to show his exhaust at 0* position. This is what has helped me figure out why my car has a p0017 while the computer shows cam at 0*. Its not really showing the cam position from where it should be. Its showing the phasing from current position which is 0*. I hope this makes sense.
As for your issue, it entirely is the exhuast side that is bad. If you think a sensor, i would do the exhaust. If it were the intake, you would get p0016. If the crank sensor was bad, you would get a p0016 and p0017, along with maybe another code.

Nox4me
I disagree. p0016 and p0017 are not directly associated with the sensors. They are saying the timing between either exhaust and crank(p0017) or intake and crank(p0016) are not plausible. This could be due to many factors. Timing chain stretched. Guides worn. Tensioner worn. Or sensors being bad. But to answer your questions. No they were not replaced. Looking at the counts each sensor is putting out, they match identical. If one was miscounting slightly, after a few thousand counts they wouldn't match anymore. However after a few thousand counts they are neck and neck in the counts. This is showing me that they are both reading the cam reluctor every single rotation.

Here is the first of 4 videos that have helped me a lot in understanding the workings of the engine both mechanically and also answering questions I had in how the ECM displays some info to a scan tool.
 

j8manski

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As I said I would update as I made progress. Not a major update, but a small one. Tonight I finally was able to switch to CAM sensors with eachother. The exhaust was very dirty while the intake was quite clean. I cleaned up the exhaust and installed in the intake and same as the other. Started up the car and now I have P0016 and P0017 pending. And within 1/2 mile P0017 became a code. P0016 is still pending. I am going to drive it for a day or so and see what happens.

I have a few ideas.

1.exhaust cam needs replacing. And exhaust cam sensor is bad.

2.exhaust cam is fine. Exhaust sensor is bad and I messed up intake sensor?

3.exhaust cam is fine. Exhaust sensor is bad. Intake sensor needs to have a cam crank relearn?

A cam/crank relearn doesnt really relearn anything with the sensors, just the position of cam/crank? But if my exhaust sensor is bad.... could the cam/crank relearn be bad as well? And this could then make the intake sensor on the exhaust show a p0017 as well even though it's good cause it was relearned with a bad sensor before after I changed timing chain?

My current plan is to wait a day or so. See what codes come up. Then switch sensors back to original positions and see what happens then. If things go back to only a P0017. Then I think I will switch exhaust with a new sensor and see if I can do a cam/crank relearn again and see if that fixes the issue. However. Curious what others think.
 

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comp

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any updates?? just got into studing on these 2.4 issues,,looking for Good sorce for engine info better than a HAYNES book,,what is everybody using out there ??? thanks
 

j8manski

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Sorry for the delay in the update. I finally got around to doing the repair before thanksgiving, then left right away for a week. Wanted to wait a few weeks to confirm repair was correct. Then December hits with all the Holiday parties with family and work and never got around to posting the results. Thank you for asking for the update, made me sit my butt down to get the update out.

As I was thinking before, I was leaning towards the exhaust camshaft. I bought the camshaft, new bolts for the phasers because both need to be removed. I also purchased the 2 speciality tools to hold the chain in place on the crank to not lose timing so I didnt need to take the side cover off. This was honestly the MOST terrifying thing of this whole repair was that chain falling off and making me jack the car up to take the wheel off and do the whole timing chain install again. THANKFULLY the chain did NOT fall off. I ended up replacing the exhaust camshaft in about 2.5 hrs start to finish. Was a fairly simple process. The scariest part was aside from the timing chain was starting the car up after the repair lol However once I got the old camshaft off and compared it to the new one I felt VERY confident I knew I was fixing the issue. You can see in the picture I attached how far off the reluctor ring spun on the old one compared to the new. After all my tests of swapping sensors and phasers and still being told the exhaust cam was not in time lead me to the camshaft. I hope this helps anyone in the future looking into this. The reluctor rings CAN spin. My mechanic said he has done dozens of timing chains on these engines and hundreds across all others and not once has he seen a reluctor ring spin like this. For me it was fairly clear to see. I had just never looked this close to camshafts before so wasn't sure what "normal" was. Compare the lobes to the notch at the end. The camera is at the same set of lobes between each camshaft.
 

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corvairbob

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was this the one that you put back into position by tapping it? if so you remember when i told you to stake it with a roll pin? if not and i knew you had this issue i would have told you to stale it with a roll pin, at the time of the chain repair. good luck
 

corvairbob

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yes still working been a year. were you teh person that had to mvoe the exhause cam relutor ring back into position? and i told you to put it back and stake it with some roll pins?

cloyes makes tons of aftermarket timing chains and they are priced fair.
 

comp

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yes still working been a year. were you teh person that had to mvoe the exhause cam relutor ring back into position? and i told you to put it back and stake it with some roll pins?

cloyes makes tons of aftermarket timing chains and they are priced fair.
are they as good,,,hopefully better than GM ??
 

corvairbob

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i can't tell you for sure but my guess is they made sure the updates are better. try searching on the internet for the clays way a youtube he does and find the ones about the equinox and ask him. he directed me to the cloyes parts site a few years ago.
 

comp

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i can't tell you for sure but my guess is they made sure the updates are better. try searching on the internet for the clays way a youtube he does and find the ones about the equinox and ask him. he directed me to the cloyes parts site a few years ago.
thanks,,have used on everything else BUT VVT parts
 

EngineBrothers

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I am a rebuilder in Grand prairie tx we don't claim to know it all but we are usually pretty good at figuring stuff out and I can honestly tell you now days whit scanners relearns sensors vvt solenoids etc etc its hard to believe that a mechanical failure can cause so much pain in the ass woooowww my hat off to you sir we have the same truck in the shop right now and you described all of my symptoms perfectly I will double check the reluctor ring tomorrow but knowing how many of these engines I have timed and my brother drives a 2012 equinox I just feel it im going to find this thing off about the same amount you did I can just feel it thank you for the awesome post I created an account just to leave this comment wrench on guys
 

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