Yet Another P0017 Issue! Sorry!

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corvairbob

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if you find that off you can re align it and then put a pin in it to keep it from moving again just drill into the low section and put in a roll pin and then take a center punch and stake it so it will not work it's way back out. the reluctor does not have any force on it but for the centrifical force from spinning.
 

comp

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if you find that off you can re align it and then put a pin in it to keep it from moving again just drill into the low section and put in a roll pin and then take a center punch and stake it so it will not work it's way back out. the reluctor does not have any force on it but for the centrifical force from spinning.
pin, stake,and add green loctite ??
 

corvairbob

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no not green green it is a gap filler not good for much else and a roll pin is a spring type pin and when it is inserted into the hole it is tight, but you can use red if you like as you will never need to remove it. however if you stake it that will be good enough. and if you was to put in a 1/8" roll pin and set it 1/16" below the surface then stake it in with a center punch around the top of the pin to push the metal over the pin that will be plenty. you could even do 2 of them, once you set that pin with a center punch it is not going anywhere.

if you want a look up hoe to stake a pin. i say roll pin as if you drill a 1/8" hole the roll pin will squeeze into that hole to give it grip. practice with a scrap chuck of metal if you want to get the feel for doing it
 
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corvairbob

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ok if your a bit leary of using a roll pin and you have had good luck with tapping threads you could get a 10-24 or 10-32 socket head cap screw that is long enough to break off and then grind down flush or get a set screw the correct length the go into the cam also do not rely on tightening it to grip the cam. it will fail the screw has to go down into the cam maybe 1/8" and then tighten on the cam.

if the set screw is a bit to long grind of the bottom and put a taper on it. as they are grade 8 screws and drill into the low section far enough to get down into the cam maybe 1/8" tap as far as you can tap don't force it when it is deep and about to enter the cam you don't need to break the tap. you may think well the tap will work but they are rock hard and if it breaks it shatters and you do not know if it shattered at the reluctor and cam seam. go slow take the tap out often to clean it. do not force it backout as 90% of the time that is when they break. measure the thickness of the low section and run the tap a bit more. you will not get the treads all the way to the bottom as the tap is tapered. so you will need to put taper type point on the screw to get it down into the cam area.

then take the screw or set screw and grind a bit of a taper so it will fit down past the narrow threads and then loctite it in and grind off the top so it is not sticking out to send a false signal and your done that screw is not going anywhere but make sure you have the reluctor aligned where you want it as your not going to get that scre out ever again. don't use a machine screw they are grade 5 or less and can break at the seam.

whatever way you go take a magnet and place it by the drilling to attract the shavings from the drill and the tap. i have done that tons of times to keep shaving out of gearboxes and motors. i was a machine repairman for 45 years. been there done tha type of repairs tons of times
 
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EngineBrothers

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I am a rebuilder in Grand prairie tx we don't claim to know it all but we are usually pretty good at figuring stuff out and I can honestly tell you now days whit scanners relearns sensors vvt solenoids etc etc its hard to believe that a mechanical failure can cause so much pain in the ass woooowww my hat off to you sir we have the same truck in the shop right now and you described all of my symptoms perfectly I will double check the reluctor ring tomorrow but knowing how many of these engines I have timed and my brother drives a 2012 equinox I just feel it im going to find this thing off about the same amount you did I can just feel it thank you for the awesome post I created an account just to leave this comment wrench on guys
This is what we found on our 2017 gmc terrain 89xxx miles
We rebuild the engine get done whit new ac Delco parts and it ran perfect no issues just kept triggering a p0017 code replaced cam whit oem acdelco cam all 100% better
 

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corvairbob

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thanks it does not take much you could have saved the old cam by staking it but you got another one and all is good. glad to hear you got it going.

i have another guy with these issues and he is having a time with his repair he has put all new parts on it and i'm trying to give him ideas but he is tossing parts at it and has yet to find the issue. i hope he finds his issue soon. anyway you got it gong and that is great.
 

corvairbob

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also as long as you had it out you could have heated it and moved it back and them brazed it at that backside hub, i would have mentioned that but i did not know you were going to take it out. you mah have brazed it in the engine but the heat on the head may have cause fire or warp issues but you got it and it is good.
 

Nemo

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Are all camshaft reluctor rings pressed on on 2016 Equinox' or are any welded on? Because I think this is my problem also.
 

Nemo

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What are the two specialty tools called that I need to hold the timing chain on the crankshaft gear?
 

Nemo

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I have attached a photo of my exhaust camshaft reluctor ring, and a picture of a new one that I got from this thread, you can see the difference between the two. The notch on my reluctor ring is way off to the left compared to the new one. My equinox will start and run but not every time. I can't believe it will even start at all being that far off.
 

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corvairbob

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the cam on the right is correct the right photo is my engine do you see the lobe in front of the bearing how it is just a bit to the left of the cam reluctor? or the lobe is about 1 o'clock and the reluctor is about 2 o'clock


the cam on the left that reluctor is more aligned with the lobe and as the engine rotates it causes that reluctor to shift counter clockwise.

i tired to find mine but your reluctor has moved and for some reason the exhaust seems to be the ones that move. if your handy and want to repair this you can tap it back into the correct spot when the engine is set to TDC and then drill and insert tight roll pins. if you want to go that route let me know i have photos showing how and where to place them

this is the lea engine cam timing this is the lea engine cam position the real photo and the internet drawing.


20220322_114013.jpgcamshaft-timing-chain-sprocket-and-tensioner_25.png




you do not need an special tools for holding the cams and the crank put the cam marks to this photo then install the phasers and the marks on the phasers will be like this photo. left is the exhaust right is the intake

20220323_081358.jpg 20220323_081408.jpg

this is the crank location with the gear on notice the left side chain is still lose because the tensioner has not yet been engaged


20220323_081049.jpg

so put the chain on the crank aligning the mark them put the chain on the intake alligning the mark then hold the exhaust cam with a cresent wrench and you can them move the cam while you have the phaser mark on the chain and put it on the cam, no special tools needed. if you want a YT

check this one

if you need more let us all know and keep us updated. good luck remember after you install the chain to rotate the engine one time at least by hand use a hand wrench not an impact or the starter to make sure your not hitting the valves.
 

corvairbob

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here is another one that has phasers on the cams he does it a bit different



this one is from cloyes site and you acan get parts here. i recommend them they ask for the vin to get the correct parts as these cars had 2 2.4 engines and the phasers and cams are a bit different. the lea uses the same phasers and cams

 

cpetku

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Thanks for starting this thread. I'm half way through the timing chain replacement due to a broken guide. Strangely, the upper bolt had dropped inside the engine, the threads were sheared off but bolt body was in good shape. Feels like the failure could have been over tourqing of the bolt by the dealer (replaced under warranty in 2019 & 40K miles ago). The timing chain installed by the dealer didn't have any colored links. Changing the phasors as well since the exhaust phasor was not locking. Ballance chain is out of sync with the camshaft by a few teeth, but cam/crank seem to be in time. While I was going to skimp here, I felt better ordering a kit for that as well since the sprocket teeth got torn up a bit. I ordered an Exhaust camshaft since I though mine looked like the one in this post. When comparing it to the original, the lobes for #4 are definitely the other side of the notch in the reluctor wheel, so that probably was the P0017. The clogged solenoids could be metal shavings from the cogs or chain or the upper guide bolt. Changing the oil pump as well, but it probably didn't need it. Concerned one of the bolts for it started pulling the threads, so considering red locktight since it's still biting, but I'm not going to ger 88 in-lb. The other option may be to order another (but really cheap) oil pump which comes with the timing cover and use the high end pump I bought. Also debating on pulling the pan to look for the rest of the sheered off bolt, but Carol just had the oild changed (twice). The previous mechanic simply changed the solenoids and flushed the system with an oil change. I'm not sure she will trust him based upon the items overlooked above. He merely stated change the oil often and look for a new car...
 

Renier330

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the cam on the right is correct the right photo is my engine do you see the lobe in front of the bearing how it is just a bit to the left of the cam reluctor? or the lobe is about 1 o'clock and the reluctor is about 2 o'clock


the cam on the left that reluctor is more aligned with the lobe and as the engine rotates it causes that reluctor to shift counter clockwise.

i tired to find mine but your reluctor has moved and for some reason the exhaust seems to be the ones that move. if your handy and want to repair this you can tap it back into the correct spot when the engine is set to TDC and then drill and insert tight roll pins. if you want to go that route let me know i have photos showing how and where to place them

this is the lea engine cam timing this is the lea engine cam position the real photo and the internet drawing.


View attachment 2035View attachment 2034




you do not need an special tools for holding the cams and the crank put the cam marks to this photo then install the phasers and the marks on the phasers will be like this photo. left is the exhaust right is the intake

View attachment 2036 View attachment 2037

this is the crank location with the gear on notice the left side chain is still lose because the tensioner has not yet been engaged


View attachment 2038

so put the chain on the crank aligning the mark them put the chain on the intake alligning the mark then hold the exhaust cam with a cresent wrench and you can them move the cam while you have the phaser mark on the chain and put it on the cam, no special tools needed. if you want a YT

check this one

if you need more let us all know and keep us updated. good luck remember after you install the chain to rotate the engine one time at least by hand use a hand wrench not an impact or the starter to make sure your not hitting the valves.
Hello friend, could you upload photos of the correct position of the reluctor ring on the camshaft I have this problem and I am trying to align the reluctor ring but I can't get a good reference, it would be very helpful to me, thank you
 

cpetku

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Simply scan this thread, that's how I verified my reluctor ring had slipped. It couldn't be moved without heat and I wasn't about to use a blow torch in an open engine. The replacement shaft is relatively cheap on Rock Auto if your doing a chain, very little extra work.
 

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