I just purchased a 2018 equinox, it has just under 50k, want to change fluid and also filter. I can't seem to find anywhere that's shows how to access filter, I just find how to do fluid since there is no dipstick. Car has awd, is there a filter that is accessible? If it just has to have pan dropped and put new filter, no problem, if ya have to take tranny half apart we'll, I'll just change fluid. Anybody have any ideas?
Trans fluid change
- Thread starter beir
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Yep, the main thing is getting fresh fluid in there. I would do 2 drain/fills now with a little bit of run time in between and a 3rd in the not so distant future. You will find the fluid to be almost black at 50K miles if it hasn't been changed.
I also added a Votex brand magnetic drain plug to the 6AT in my 2021 Equinox. It picks up metallic paste every time you pull it, but it's so tiny I doubt it does much other than lighten you wallet ~$20.
As far as I know there's two filters in the 6 and 9 speeds. The standard screen/felt type for the pump suction, then a small cartridge filter buried in there as well. No way to get them unless you tear the thing apart.
I also added a Votex brand magnetic drain plug to the 6AT in my 2021 Equinox. It picks up metallic paste every time you pull it, but it's so tiny I doubt it does much other than lighten you wallet ~$20.
As far as I know there's two filters in the 6 and 9 speeds. The standard screen/felt type for the pump suction, then a small cartridge filter buried in there as well. No way to get them unless you tear the thing apart.
Autoworker 74
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I had the trans fluid in my 14 Nox changed twice and as far as I remember the power flush cleans the filter as it's flushing the fluid. At 50,000 and 7 years I would also consider a coolant flush. You could just go with a drain and fill but for myself I prefer the machine flush.
Good advice in having these fluids changed, but the term flush is a misconception. You can't flow ATF backwards to backwash filters. Fluid wont flow that way in a transmission. These fluid exchanger machines are plugged inline into the cooler lines and use the transmission's own pump to do all the pumping normal flow path, while the engine idles. It is the most efficient way of getting the old fluid out and new fluid back in with minimal mixing of the two.
TwoEquinoxDad
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I recently did a transmission flush by removing the cooler return line at the radiator and plugging a 3/8" plastic hose in its place. I drained the transmission and overfilled with fresh fluid by 3 quarts. I placed the open end of the plastic hose in a one-gallon milk jug. I started the engine and filled the jug. I did the overfill and drain about four times. The fluid changed from pitch black to cherry red. I used an Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid. I added sufficient fluid at the end to get a slight dribble out the level check port. I followed a YouTube video. Search Don Smith Flush for the video. I did this on daughter #1 2019 Equinox with 90K miles.
Good deal! Was this it's first fluid change? Mine was so black with ~3yrs and 34K miles on it, I don't know how it would survive to 100K miles.
I haven't looked at how easy the access is to the cooler lines on my 2021. Assuming they use the circlip and "jiffy-tite" push lock connections, I hate messing with those darn things.
Nothing wrong with doing the overfill like you did. I just find it easier to disconnect the line. Add a section of hose so it routes nicely into a pan, jug, etc. Idle the engine until ATF flow stops/sputters. Add the amount that came out. Repeat.
TwoEquinoxDad
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This was the first fluid change. Jiffy-clips are definitely a PITA. I found sources for these clips from Dorman or Amazon. Amazon clips are cheap, made in China but work just fine. I put a few of them into orbit
Red2018
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You don't need to disconnect any lines or do the procedure as Gm recommends to to change the fluid, just put a drain pan under the transmission and remove the drain plug. Leave it drain for a few hours since it takes time for the fluid pass through all the passages to remove most of the fluid and then reinstall the drain plug. Do Not over tighten the plug (3/16 to 1/8 between the bolt head and the pan outlet face) or you'll strip the threads. Measure exactly how much fluid was removed and add the exact amount through the fill hole by removing the filler cap at the top of the transmission. You may want to do this whole procedure twice if your fluid was really dark to flush out most of the dirty fluid. I don't recommend a reverse flush if the transmission was never changed, the debris will plug up tiny passages going in the reverse direction and then your in real trouble. Finally only use AC Delco dexron VI fluid made for the transmission, don't use the universal fluids that claim to cover all makes, you'll only get a dexron III capability.
That gives me some peace of mind...thanx
Old thread here, but dark fluid doesn't necessarily mean all is well either. You can pretty much guarantee early transmission failure from NOT changing ATF at some reasonable interval.
azjeff
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Yeah, 50k with dark fluid isn't necessarily bad, 100k with dark fluid isn't good.
Red2018
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GM recommends transmission fluid change between 50K - 60K black or or not, 30K for severe usage or else void your warranty !!!!!
Nasher75
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My mother-in-law has a 2022 Equinox AWD and since my father-in-law passed away last year, I have taken over doing the maintenance and repairs on this vehicle. It has relatively low miles 38K and it seems like these care have there more than fair share of problems. The latest was a hard clunking shift when car was upshifting after hill climbs. She lives in the mountains so this is just normal driving. As it is under warranty, I suggested she just make an appointment to have the dealer look at it, but since she very limited on budget she asked me to look at it first. I agreed I would do a trans fluid change and see if the situation improves, but want her to take it to the dealer if the problem persists, since that would indicate a transmission component problem.
Any way, I am here because I did the fluid change a few days ago and found it difficult to follow the process due to the difficult access to the fill cap. When the car is cool, I can snake my arm under the radiator hose along the front of the engine to do the initial 4qt fill after draining. The challenge I face is how to access that cap after driving the 15-20 minutes to get trans up to operating temp for level check. For me and this particular model/configuration, there is no way to access that cap to remove cap if it requires a top off after getting up to temp. And you must drive this ting to get trans up to temp. At first, I just let it idle for 20-30 minutes, but when I pulled the level plug, it gushed and the fluid was barely warm.
Any tips/tricks to getting the cap removed when the engine is screaming hot? I am actually considering just leaving the cap off for the drive cycle the next time I do this service. Good news is that the hard clunking shifts have not returned since fluid change, but I still plan to do another drain and fill in a couple weeks just to get most of the factory fluid cycled out of there.
Appreciate any tips
Any way, I am here because I did the fluid change a few days ago and found it difficult to follow the process due to the difficult access to the fill cap. When the car is cool, I can snake my arm under the radiator hose along the front of the engine to do the initial 4qt fill after draining. The challenge I face is how to access that cap after driving the 15-20 minutes to get trans up to operating temp for level check. For me and this particular model/configuration, there is no way to access that cap to remove cap if it requires a top off after getting up to temp. And you must drive this ting to get trans up to temp. At first, I just let it idle for 20-30 minutes, but when I pulled the level plug, it gushed and the fluid was barely warm.
Any tips/tricks to getting the cap removed when the engine is screaming hot? I am actually considering just leaving the cap off for the drive cycle the next time I do this service. Good news is that the hard clunking shifts have not returned since fluid change, but I still plan to do another drain and fill in a couple weeks just to get most of the factory fluid cycled out of there.
Appreciate any tips
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