2014 equinox jerking
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corvairbob
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ok i'm out of ideas. you changed the exhaust cam correct? are you 100% sure it is back in correct time? it is possibe it has never been timed correctly but if you did graphs like the ones i sent you and they match chances are the cam timing is correct.
maybe the guys from go tech will get back t you with some good help. i thinks i sent you a Yt from south main suto the he did an impalla and it had a bad timing chaing and phasers and he did a graph form that engine and form a known good engine. if not let me know and i will send that to you.
maybe the guys from go tech will get back t you with some good help. i thinks i sent you a Yt from south main suto the he did an impalla and it had a bad timing chaing and phasers and he did a graph form that engine and form a known good engine. if not let me know and i will send that to you.
corvairbob
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if you want to try another forum her is one that talks of an issue like your having maybe they can offer some other ideas? try this site the chevy forums they also have some good help on that site give them the codes for the beginning and run thru what you did ans see if one of them can help you as well.
corvairbob
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say did you say that if you give it a bit of gas the engine smooths out? or if you put it into neutral it will smooth out? if so will your scanner let you readjust the idle. what is the engine idling at when it runs ok and what is it when it runs bad? my car when it started to run bad the idle dropped to under 750 rps and if i got the rpms up to 800 or 900 it ran smooth. if that is the case for you then if you can tell the engine to just run faster at idle that may take care of the issue. it di for me. my girl now just leave the a/c on all the time and her misfire,stumble,stutter,jerky went away.
what i think is going on is the trans is commanding the clutches to engage and disengage. if that makes sense.
what i was going to do for my girls car if it starts doing that again is to put a throttle plate screw in the TB to hold the TB open kind of like old school idle adjustments but so far she said the a/c on is doing the job
what i think is going on is the trans is commanding the clutches to engage and disengage. if that makes sense.
what i was going to do for my girls car if it starts doing that again is to put a throttle plate screw in the TB to hold the TB open kind of like old school idle adjustments but so far she said the a/c on is doing the job
corvairbob
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we have been down this road but it is still possible you have a bad vvt or phaser if you did not swap the phasers providing you have the lea engine if not they you cant swap tem easy they can be swapped but the timing is almost impossible to get correct. here is an article talking on this. it is possible the vvt is intermittent and or the phaser. do the vvt first clean the old one and test the ohms, if in spec try it and then see how it works. if not then if you have the lea engine try swapping the phasers and see if the problem moves. you can't operate the phasers by hand but you can with air pressure to test if they move. or you can take them apart to see if the guts are still good. i can send photos of bad ones.
1. Rough engine idle
Proper ignition timing is crucial to ensuring that your engine runs smooth and efficient. When the vehicle is under load, the VVT switch will monitor the engine and send information to the computer to adjust the valve timing as needed. However, when the switch is not working properly, its ability to send accurate data is compromised. Even though this unit is supposed to only work under non-normal driving conditions, it can cause the vehicle’s engine to run rough. If you notice that the engine has a rough idle, specifically if the engine RPM rises and falls from 100 to 300 RPM at idle, contact a local ASE certified mechanic as soon as possible.I'm thinking I could have a bad phaser. I still have a rattle on start up. With all new timing I think it shouldn't? I can't even get a code now. But it will shake an miss like crazy. If I unplug the vvt sensor for exhaust it will smooth out. I think the rattle is the phaser..
An I swapped the vvt sensors again with new ac Delco ones today
corvairbob
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did it do any good? when you put the other vvt solenoids back in?
here is a photo of my lea engine broken phasers if yours are not new they could be in this shape. i do not remember if you said you installed new phasers.
when you unplugged the vvt and it took the pressure off the phaser it calmed down. you say vvt sensors but vvt's are solenoids so maybe you mean the solenoids but you can't swap them front to back or intake to exhaust so you must have put the new vvt solenoids back in.
if putting the new vvt solenoids fails then i think if you did not put in new phasers that you may have bad phasers. if you do take them out orient them so they look like this photo so you do not get them out of sequence so if you take them apart you can get them back together.
and yes if the phases are bad you can get lots of rattle. check out that south main auto YT i sent you thread #26 he talks of the phasers being bad
here is a YT that shows how to diagnose p0016 code he has 3 parts you may check this one out if your scanner can do this type of checks he gives good info on how to find the issues pt 1 and 2 are all scope diagnosis and pt 3 are teh teardown and repair
this one he repalced the intake pahser
this is south main auto for about the same repair and scope.
here is a photo of my lea engine broken phasers if yours are not new they could be in this shape. i do not remember if you said you installed new phasers.
when you unplugged the vvt and it took the pressure off the phaser it calmed down. you say vvt sensors but vvt's are solenoids so maybe you mean the solenoids but you can't swap them front to back or intake to exhaust so you must have put the new vvt solenoids back in.
if putting the new vvt solenoids fails then i think if you did not put in new phasers that you may have bad phasers. if you do take them out orient them so they look like this photo so you do not get them out of sequence so if you take them apart you can get them back together.
and yes if the phases are bad you can get lots of rattle. check out that south main auto YT i sent you thread #26 he talks of the phasers being bad
here is a YT that shows how to diagnose p0016 code he has 3 parts you may check this one out if your scanner can do this type of checks he gives good info on how to find the issues pt 1 and 2 are all scope diagnosis and pt 3 are teh teardown and repair
this is south main auto for about the same repair and scope.
corvairbob
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not sure what your telling me are you saying you got a reduced power notice on the car dash? or are you telling me you found out you should have 600 psi for rail pressure and it is at 1100 psi?
Both
Both. I'm getting code p228 and p0089 an p0300. When it misfires now the rail pressure spikes to 1100 an desire is like 6oo. An the rail pressure command falls to 0 degrees. I hit the gas the rail pressure command goes up to 45 or so it stops missing an pressure falls from 1100 to normal
corvairbob
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ok i think you mean p0228 as p228 returns no results.
p0228 returns TB position sensor issues
p0089 p0087 are for HP pump and tank pump
this YT is for p0089
but he talks of the tank pump and then says the HP pump is faulty
because you do not have the p0087 yet i will not go there it is the fuel rail senor
here is a forum that talks of your issue and it seem to be point to the TB position sensor. read that thread. the p0228 code i think you meant to say. when the codes start sometimes the ecu gives false codes so if you gave me the codes in order then the p0228 if it was first look at that. it can present lots of code issues.
also post on that site with your issue and see if anyone there may have been thru this and can offer some help
www.terrainforum.net
p0228 returns TB position sensor issues
p0089 p0087 are for HP pump and tank pump
this YT is for p0089
but he talks of the tank pump and then says the HP pump is faulty
because you do not have the p0087 yet i will not go there it is the fuel rail senor
here is a forum that talks of your issue and it seem to be point to the TB position sensor. read that thread. the p0228 code i think you meant to say. when the codes start sometimes the ecu gives false codes so if you gave me the codes in order then the p0228 if it was first look at that. it can present lots of code issues.
also post on that site with your issue and see if anyone there may have been thru this and can offer some help
Fuel Pressure Problem
I have a 2012 Terrain and for a while now I have had rough idling when at stop lights and any other time I am stopped while in drive or reverse. Doesn't seem to be an issue in neutral or park and I don't drive it in manual so not sure how that is. I've replaced variable timing solenoids a...
corvairbob
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glad you got it. i went thru that with ebay parts. so that issue still sounded like a bad phaser to me, but you thought you got a new one from amazon and got a bad one. amazon sucks for getting what you think is new parts. anyway you can get them from cloyes they are gm suppliers. what is bad about amazon is someone got one and put the bad one back the the box and returned it for a refund and amazon just puts them back on the shelf and you go the bad one. i see a lot of that going on. for anyone in the future doing this repair don't use amazon go to cloyes and get new original parts.
anyway it is great that you finally got it boy you had a ton of work to do good for you and lets hope it is a done deal now. one thing is to make sure you keep the oil up as low oil will cause the chain guides to fail faster that a jack rabbit in heat. been there also. for some reason the guides are the last in the oil loop. must be the pressure drop going thru that small oil hole in the guide lube system.
also it may be a good idea to put in a pvc system. YT show a guy taht did this and i did it and it seem to be working. something for the future and warmer weather.
anyway it is great that you finally got it boy you had a ton of work to do good for you and lets hope it is a done deal now. one thing is to make sure you keep the oil up as low oil will cause the chain guides to fail faster that a jack rabbit in heat. been there also. for some reason the guides are the last in the oil loop. must be the pressure drop going thru that small oil hole in the guide lube system.
also it may be a good idea to put in a pvc system. YT show a guy taht did this and i did it and it seem to be working. something for the future and warmer weather.
I appreciate u sticking it out. An yes Amazon is bad for that. I also put a new oil pump . Just to be safe. An I'm going to do the pcv upgrade. I will have to get 100 thousand miles out of this turd to cover cost an time an the psychological damage it has costed lol
corvairbob
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it kind of sounds like it. keep the oil level up and change the oil every 3 to 5k for the money you put into it you may want to lean closer to 3k and i told my girl to use good synthetic oil, and if you have not changed out the seals you may want to go with high mileage type oil it is said to have additives to help the seals remain soft and keep fitting the shafts. i changed out all the seals on my girls engine when i had it out. and i did rings and rod bearings. i did not do the mains and the rods looked good and the mains do not get quite the abuse ad the rods do and i did not want to separate that case section. also if you have a ton of miles on the trans don't just change the oil. if the trans ol is black leave it alone. but if you have been up on the trans oil changes you may be ok. the equinox's are also bad on the trans. when they get to 100k the oil in them starts to turn black and that color is the clutch pcs in the oil and if you change it then that goes away and you will be doing a trans soon after. research equinox transmissions and you will see what i'm saying. there is talk on this site about that issue. also the trans oil level is not just a dipstick on most it is taking the drivers side tire off and then going after a plug on the side of the trans. it may not hurt to get in there and do a trans oil level check. just to be safe. and if you have a ton of miles just add any oil you may need. also make sure it is the oil the trans takes do not use any it will work tran oil these trans are fussy.
here is a site for the 6t45 trans if yours is this trans code you may find
here is a YT the clay way to do the trans oil level check
good luck
here is a site for the 6t45 trans if yours is this trans code you may find
here is a YT the clay way to do the trans oil level check
good luck
I actually bought this needing a trans. I got one at a yard an hour from me. 60 thousand miles. 125 bucks. I swapped tcm out so no programming. An flushed the lines an use new fluid. I have under 5 grand in the car now. If I get a trouble free year out of it I'll call it A win. An on the oil changes I always go 3 thousand miles. Anything over is asking for trouble on the newer stuff. Maybe why the want u to go so long.
corvairbob
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ok thanks for the update. it sounds like you have the bases covered. way more than most folks do.
I have the same problem(2010 chevy equinox LTZ 2.4L 67,00 miles) and just found your thread. Hopefully its the phasers for me also. Like the guy you helped out, i also changed o2 sensors, spark plugs, ignition coil, fuel pressure sensor, solenoids, etc. And Still got a misfire and -15 to -20 long term fuel trim when at idle after driving 10-15mins.
I have a 2010 equinox ltz 2.4L with the same issues at only 67,000 miles.
