2012 Equinox 2.4L engine rebuild, looking for insight from experienced engine builders

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jfbrubaker1969

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Work continues...

So after I got the pistons installed, I temporarily installed the oil pan so that I could support the engine in order to removed the front engine mount and front engine cover so that I could access the timing chains. I knew there was a failure with one or more of the timing chain components, but I wasn't prepared for the amount of destruction! It looks like the plastic timing chain guide that is on the intake side of the engine exploded! There was plastic pieces and shrapnel all over the place (there was a lot in the oil pan when I removed it.). With the guide in pieces, it looks like the chain was able to spin the bottom bolt out, but because the bolt hit the front engine cover before it was able to work its way completely out, it just spun inside the bolt hole and gouged it out!

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Fortunately I didn't have any explosives on hand, so I had time to calm down and look for a solution that didn't include me ending up in jail! After some research, I felt a threaded insert would be the way to go, so I contacted a buddy of mine that is a pretty good machinist and asked if he could make me a jig to aid in drilling out the hole and tapping it for the insert. I was able to get some measurements of the three raised bosses that were close together AND at the same height and was able to use CAD to work out the correct geometry and then design an appropriate jig.

In the below image, the bolt location circled in red is the one that got chewed up, the two other bolts circled in blue would be used to hold the jig in place. My friend had the suggestion of 3D printing the jig since it was for a one time use only. It would be much faster to make since the company he works for has some pretty high end 3D printers.

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I designed the jig to have three machined aluminum inserts for the 'business' end of the jig. The first insert had a 6mm diameter hole so that I could use a bolt to get it centered properly (there were enough threads at the bottom of the hole to center the bolt). Once the jig was properly set up and held in place with the other two bolts, the second insert with an 8.5mm hole was used to guide the drill bit and the third insert had a 10.5mm hole to act as a guide for the M10x1.5 tap.

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I wasn't sure if the 8.5mm drill bit would be large enough to completely drill out all of the chewed up aluminum, so I decided to fill the hole with JB Weld first. I figured at least 80% of the threaded insert would be encapsulated by aluminum, so I wasn't worried about the threaded insert failing and pulling out, but I though filling any 'voids' would help to support the threaded insert and hopefully eliminate any possible vibration of the bolt/insert.

To avoid any air bubbles when filling the hole with JB Weld, I used a syringe to fill the hole from the bottom up.

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After drilling out the hole with the 8.5mm bit, you can see there is only a little bit of JB Weld filling in a couple of 'low' spots, it's mostly clean, solid aluminum.

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And here it is with the EZ-Lok threaded insert. I threaded a 6mm bolt in and it feels really solid. I watched a number of YouTube videos where independent people tested different thread repair methods and every time, the bolt would fail before the EZ-Lok insert would so I'm feeling very confident with this repair method.

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jfbrubaker1969

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Well, I got the engine reassembled yesterday, but I did leave out the coils/spark plugs. This morning I added 5qts of oil and turned the motor over 3 times for about 30 seconds each time to prime the engine with oil. I checked the oil filter and the VVT solenoids and I had oil in both. I installed the spark plugs and coils, turned on the ignition and she started right up! It was a little rough at first (which I expected), but smoothed out after 15-20 seconds. Engine sounded good, no unexpected noises, and then...I got a low oil pressure warning. There's no sign of any oil leaks, I got oil all the way to the top of the engine when priming, so I know the NEW oil pump is working. I'm guessing it's probably a bad oil pressure switch, but I'm wondering is anyone knows how to check the ACTUAL oil pressure of the 2.4l Ecotec?
 

jfbrubaker1969

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Turns out to be a faulty oil pressure switch. I bought an oil pressure set from Harbor Freight, removed the old sensor, connected the oil pressure gauge (it was a PITA for a guy like me with big hands!) I disconnected the injectors and removed the spark plugs so I could crank the engine with the least amount of resistance...oil pressure got up to about 30 PSI. Feeling good about that result, I put the spark plugs back in and connected the injectors and started it up. At around 1000 rpm the oil pressure was about 65PSI...right where it should be! I removed the oil pressure gauge and put in the new oil pressure sensor, started it up and no more low oil pressure warning! I just let it idle for about 10 minutes and now I'm going to take it out for a test drive. I noticed the radiator drain cock is dripping a little, so I'll have to sort that out, but it looks like I'm finally done! I'll report back later with how the test drive went.
 

jfbrubaker1969

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I thought I'd give an update. After replacing the oil pressure sensor, I started it up and no more warning. Following the manufacturers recommendation for seating the rings (varied RPM for about 20 minutes), I took it for a 25 test minute drive on some back roads. The engine ran great, nice and smooth! For the last few minutes of the drive, I got on the interstate for just a couple of miles. Right as I took the off ramp, the low oil pressure warning came on. There was a parking area right at the end of the ramp, so I pulled in, shut it down and took a look under the car for any sign of an oil leak. Everything looked fine, so I took a chance and drove the remaining 1 mile to my house.

It turns out the internal seal of the brand new oil pressure sensor I bought failed. When I removed the wiring connector, the end was covered with oil. I removed the sensor and used my air compressor to blow some air at the end of it and I could see oil seeping out around the pin. Unfortunately the automotive store I bought the sensor from only carried the one brand, so I decided to purchase from an online company instead.

New sensor installed and no more low oil pressure warning...and it's lasted longer than 20 minutes! I just completed the 100 mile ring break in with 5W-30 conventional oil as recommended by the ring manufacturer, so I drained the oil and have put in 5W-30 full synthetic and a new oil filter. I closely inspected the oil filer I had in for the break-in and it looked clean, no metal fragments!

I will be carefully checking the oil level every 500 miles until the next oil change at 3,000 miles. I'm hoping that new rings and pistons have fixed the oil burning issue, we will see!
 

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