How to change your oil in your I4 2010 + Nox Terrain

Z_Ghost

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I am changing the oil in my 2011 Terrain SLT2 I4 Terrain and I figured that I would do a write up.


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What you need.
Oil 5 qts (I’m going with Pennzoil Platinum)
Oil Filter (I’m using AC/ Delco Part # PF457G)
Oil Filter Socket, 1 1/4" (32mm), 3/8" drive Low profile (see reply #3)
Ratchet
12 Extension
Swivel
15 mm Box wrench
Darin Pan
Rags
Ramps are optional, I did not use or need them.

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Use the Ratchet, 12 Extension, Swivel and Oil Filter Socket to remove the Oil Filter Cap.

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Note that my swivel has tap around it, this keeps it turned how I want it and has been like that for the last 20 years or so.
Once you have the Oil Filter Cap unscrewed you will have to wiggle it a bit to get it to come out, I did have to move one hose over a bit by had to get the filter all the way out.
I covered the opening with a rag so no dirt got in there as I drained the oil.

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The pic above is looking under the front bumper and the drain plug is on the back side of the Oil Pan.

I was able to get under the Terrain to reach the Drain Plug with the 15 mm Box wrench with no problems so I did not have to dig out the ramps.

The oil will stream out so make sure that the drain pan is position so it will catch all of the oil.

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I let the motor drain for about 20 minutes.

Clean and oil the drain plug O-ring and reinstall it.
I screwed it in by had then used the wrench to pull it up tight, then just snugged it a bit more
Just do not really torque it down.

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Pull the old Oil Filter off the cap wipe it out with a rag making sure not to leave any lint inside the cap.
Oil the O-ring and install the new Filter in the cap and wiggle the cap back into the motor.
Start the cap by hand, it should screw on most of the way before you need the Ratchet to tighten it.

Again take it till it stops then just snug it a bit more.
It will fit flush with no O-ring visible

(note I have been doing this for a long time so I know when it’s tight enough and to that I am not responsible for anyone over tightening or under tightening the drain plug or oil filter)
Both the Drain plug and the Oil Filter Cap have rubber O-rings and do not need to be over tighten.

Now unscrew the Oil Filler Cap.
I got to say I had to use a bit of force to get to get it off. I had to wiggle it back and forth at the same time pulling up.

Put funnel in the hole and slowly pour in your 5 quarts.
Oil the O-ring on the Filler Cap, this will make it easier to take off the next time.

Now look under the vehicle just to make sure no oil is leaking out.
For getting the Darin Plug will cause oil leaks.
 

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Z_Ghost

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I cut the filter apart to see what all was in there.

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Finding some small bits of metal is OK and is normal on the first oil change.

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So if you cut your filter or just pull the pleats apart and see some do not freak out.
All I found was aluminum and is flashing from the block.
No matter how well you deburr a block and internals and how well you wash one out your still going to find some bits in the filter.

Now after the 3rd oil change you should not be seeing any metal bits like this.

I streched out the filter.

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Have fun and really it's easy to do.
 

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Z_Ghost

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Reset your Oil Life System.
Turn key to run - do not start - push gas peddle to floor 3 times.
Or
Turn key to run, press DIC menu button to display Vehicle info,

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press arrow up or down to display remaining oil life, press the SET/CLR button then arrow up to select YES


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then the SEL/CLR.
 
Now start up the vehicle and look under it and around the Filter cap to look for leaks, if no leaks in the first minute then your good to go.



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Z_Ghost

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Oil Filter Socket, 1 1/4" (32mm), 3/8" drive Low profile

I got the one I have from the parts store but you can find them cheaper if you look around

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14700-Filter-Wrench-2-2L/dp/B0009OMYAQ


One note about the socket.
When I first got it I had a hard time getting it to go all the way on the Oil Filter Cap. I had to take a small diamond file and file down some of the power coating on the inside.
It now slips on and off with ease.
It's better to have it all the way on as to keep from messing up the cap.

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Last note.
You do not need a new cap or O-ring as they will last a long long time and I would not change the O-ring with any O-ring other then the one from GM.
I change the oil in my Cobalt SS 9 times and it was still using the cap and O-ring that came on the car from the factory.
 

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Z_Ghost

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Thanks, it was a pain to post but I think it's worth it if it helps someone.
 
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I like the new cartridge filters. Easy way to inspect them and see what is happening with the inside of your engine. Plus less land fill issues.
 

Z_Ghost

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I like how easy they are to change and it's realy nice not having to cut the the metal filter apart, I have cut a lot of them in the last 30 + years
 

dietz4ibanez

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haha... Nick and I were just talking about this thread over dinner! I was thinking I could hit my next oil filter with my quickcut saw. But there would be metal shavings all over the object of interest for sure...
 

Z_Ghost

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The one I have is like that one I posted a link to, it's around 20 years old and still works.
I have always liked seeing what was in the filter and can tell you a lot about what is going on inside a motor.
 

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