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Message: <blockquote data-quote="corvairbob" data-source="post: 18503" data-attributes="member: 5236">ok if your a bit leary of using a roll pin and you have had good luck with tapping threads you could get a 10-24 or 10-32 socket head cap screw that is long enough to break off and then grind down flush or get a set screw the correct length the go into the cam also do not rely on tightening it to grip the cam. it will fail the screw has to go down into the cam maybe 1/8" and then tighten on the cam. if the set screw is a bit to long grind of the bottom and put a taper on it. as they are grade 8 screws and drill into the low section far enough to get down into the cam maybe 1/8" tap as far as you can tap don't force it when it is deep and about to enter the cam you don't need to break the tap. you may think well the tap will work but they are rock hard and if it breaks it shatters and you do not know if it shattered at the reluctor and cam seam. go slow take the tap out often to clean it. do not force it backout as 90% of the time that is when they break. measure the thickness of the low section and run the tap a bit more. you will not get the treads all the way to the bottom as the tap is tapered. so you will need to put taper type point on the screw to get it down into the cam area. then take the screw or set screw and grind a bit of a taper so it will fit down past the narrow threads and then loctite it in and grind off the top so it is not sticking out to send a false signal and your done that screw is not going anywhere but make sure you have the reluctor aligned where you want it as your not going to get that scre out ever again.  don't use a machine screw they are grade 5 or less and can break at the seam.whatever way you go take a magnet and place it by the drilling to attract the shavings from the drill and the tap. i have done that tons of times to keep shaving out of gearboxes and motors. i was a machine repairman for 45 years. been there done tha type of repairs tons of times</blockquote>

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