Hello everyone, I just did the timing on a 2014 Chevy equinox 2.4l i4, this is actually the second time I did the timing for this exact vehicle but the first time the timing was what we assume a tooth off(obviously not 100% sure how true that is). Engine wasn’t heavily damaged there wasn’t any horrible noise and the car wasn’t running for long. I got it torn apart again and timed it to what should be perfect but then it was crank no start. This car needs to be running today I am out of time. It’s been almost a week and I’m tired of being up late every night. I was thinking crank/cam sensors which I already have but I can’t for the life of me get that god forsaken crank sensor out and didn’t even want to try the cam sensors. The throttle had thrown a code for the actual position not at expected position but I cleaned it and tried starting fluid it sat on a battery charger over night on deep cycle tried to start it this morning had 13.1 v so it should be perfectly able to start. I’m tired and need second opinions, please help guys.
Crank no start after timing chain replacement
- Thread starter Thegman
- Start date
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How does the cadence of the engine sound while cranking it over in clear flood mode? As in, does it sound like you are getting even compression on all 4? If you can verify each cyl is getting fuel and each is getting spark hopefully both being at the right time/amount/pressure, this leaves your valve timing again.
It sounds just fine cranking I can’t really confirm that all cylinders have compression but I believe it needs a throttle body relearn and is in limp mode. Also I’m not sure what clear flood mode is. But I’m most likely going to check fuel spark and every other system I can today.
Holding the accelerator pedal to the floor while cranking cuts all fuel to the engine. You can listen for normal cranking sounds, do a relative compression test or one with a compression tester in each spark plug hole cranking with the go pedal to the floor.
Okay sweet I’ll try this I have a scanner on the way for the throttle body relearn and I can try that if it won’t start after that. But are there any specific noises I should be listening for (sorry I’m a tech in training).
I don't believe a throttle re-learn will make a non-running engine run. You've unfortunately got bigger problems afoot. As it is now, with the key on, engine off, when you press and release the throttle pedal, does the E-throttle open and close?
unclefunk
New member
I just did a "Amazon" rebuild on my 2013 2.4. (please don't bash) When I got it reassembled I had a crank, no start. Engine cranked like there was no compression (sloshy sounding) I re-did the timing a couple of times thinking I must have gotten it wrong. I'm old school and thought that the timing marks would line up after rotating the engine. Found out on this forum that I was mistaken. (thank you). Checked compression and basically there was nothing across all cylinders. So I pulled the cam's and rechecked the compression. Great compression. At least now I knew the problem was in the top end. I read a lot about cam reluctor wheels spinning but that was not my issue. After double checking that the cam's were not the issue, I checked the phazer's, thinking this was my last hurrah before throwing in the towel. Comparing the new phazer's to the old one's I found that the intake phazer's center part was flipped over. (I'll try to post a pic) "Amazon Special?" So the tab that sits in the notch on the cam was 180* out. I ended up putting the old Phazer in to see if I solved the issue. Got it all back together and it fired right up. I'm going to disassemble the phazer today and see if it can be assembled incorrectly or not. I haven't come across this on any forum's yet so this might be worth checking "if all else fail's" Thank's for listening to my rant. sorry for the crappy pic.
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