AWD 2013 2.4L rear vibration turning

[jeped0]

Hey guys, So I have 2013 Chevy equinox with the 2.4 eco in it. Recently it started rumbling/vibrating when taking sharp turns. Did some research and came to the conclusion it has something to do with the rear differential clutch pump actuator. I pulled fuse #48 for the AWD and it seems to have stopped. Would you say I'm correct in determining it's the actuator? If so, do they sell rebuild kits for these or is it just better off buying a new or used unit. Pretty sure I will need to have it programmed if I get a new unit as well. What's your thoughts? Thanks in advance.

 

[jeped0]

Anyone have thoughts on this?

 

[jjs17]

Yes I had purchased a 2017 Equinox last year right around this time. It was for my daughter, she starred driving it and noticed a sort of grinding noise from the rear end when she made sharp turns. Brought it to a friend of mine who knows Equinox vehicles, he drove it and instantly knew what it was. The rear differential was the culprit. He got a used one from a salvage yard near us and swapped it with the original. He did leave the original module so as not to have to reprogram anything. It was a bit of a job but that seemed to take care of it so far. I had done some researching on that issue and several comments said there may have been an extended of a tiff that caused it, I guess there is a tolerance of difference in tire sizes that could cause a problem too. Like if someone had driven the car with a spare tire for a while, I guess AWD vehicles don't like having different circumference wheels on the same axle. Here is a link to a you tube video on a replacement, from one of the best mechanics on the internet.

Copy the link and paste it into your browser, you won't be disappointed.

 

[jeped0]

Yes I had purchased a 2017 Equinox last year right around this time. It was for my daughter, she starred driving it and noticed a sort of grinding noise from the rear end when she made sharp turns. Brought it to a friend of mine who knows Equinox vehicles, he drove it and instantly knew what it was. The rear differential was the culprit. He got a used one from a salvage yard near us and swapped it with the original. He did leave the original module so as not to have to reprogram anything. It was a bit of a job but that seemed to take care of it so far. I had done some researching on that issue and several comments said there may have been an extended of a tiff that caused it, I guess there is a tolerance of difference in tire sizes that could cause a problem too. Like if someone had driven the car with a spare tire for a while, I guess AWD vehicles don't like having different circumference wheels on the same axle. Here is a link to a you tube video on a replacement, from one of the best mechanics on the internet.

Copy the link and paste it into your browser, you won't be disappointed.

I was debating grabbing the whole rear differential. I'm not sure if it's the rear diff or just the clutch actuator. It drives fine with the rear end disabled. I don't hear anything wrong with the diff. That's why I was wondering if changing just the actuator would be the way to go. Easier job than just dropping the whole rear end. I guess I can just change the actuator and go from there if needed.

 

[jjs17]

I would agree, I suggested disabling the electronic module to my friend but he decided he would change the diff also. I guess I will never know for sure if he only needed to just change the module, he said he had done others the same way and it took care of the problem. If you do change the actuator I would be interested if it is the solution.

 

[jeped0]

I would agree, I suggested disabling the electronic module to my friend but he decided he would change the diff also. I guess I will never know for sure if he only needed to just change the module, he said he had done others the same way and it took care of the problem. If you do change the actuator I would be interested if it is the solution.

I'll probably end up doing the actuator first. But I'll let you know the results.

 

[jjs17]

I'll probably end up doing the actuator first. But I'll let you know the results.

Thank you I hope it fixes the issue, then I will let my friend know if he ever runs across the problem again.

 

[Fred]

I was debating grabbing the whole rear differential. I'm not sure if it's the rear diff or just the clutch actuator. It drives fine with the rear end disabled. I don't hear anything wrong with the diff. That's why I was wondering if changing just the actuator would be the way to go. Easier job than just dropping the whole rear end. I guess I can just change the actuator and go from there if needed.

My 2015, replaced the clutch housing with a junkyard one, was worse than my original. Back in goes the original. New housing 3000 + bucks.

 

[Fred]

My 2015, replaced the clutch housing with a junkyard one, was worse than my original. Back in goes the original. New housing 3000 + bucks.

Well the 2nd one from the juckyard worked, I just change the clutch pack. Had to get the RDCCM reprogramed with the code on the connector (B6). Works great. Did it in my driveway, 4 car ramps. Hardest part was disconnect the wire harness loom on top of the differential. It was plastic buttoned two places along hte top.clutch

 

[Fred]

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