2013 2.4 oil use question

[corvairbob]

ok can some here tell me what is the reason for oil use on the 2013 2.4? it has 180k on it now is it rings seals or valve seals? i have the engine down for timing chain repairs and had to redrill out the exhaust manifold bolt at the water pump. but my girl is complaining of oil use. so if it is valve seals i guess now would be the time to take the cams out and take the springs out one at a time and just put in new seals.

if it is rings outside of pulling the head and taking the ridge out and pulling the piston's and just installing new rings will high mileage type oil help? or maybe some snake oil additive might help? it looks like it may have had good oil pressure as the oil pump looks like now with no groves and the timing chain broke so bad that the oil pickup was full and she did not get any ecm codes for low oil. nor the oil light. so if the oil use is mostly rings would just putting in new rings do any good without actually boring out the cylinders? i really do not want to get that far into a rebuild, but guess at this point i can pull the head and pistons and re ring it. being the pan is off for oil pickup cleaning.

also how do the valves on this engine hold up. i guess if i did pull the head and did rings i could send the head out for a valve job. so can anyone lend some advice on these questions for me. thanks bp.

 

[NOX4ME]

 

[corvairbob]

ok i have some parts ordered but tell me why did you choose a different oil fill cap and not use the one on the car? the one you use is rounded and looks taller than the original or was it because it looks easier to remove and install with a pvc sticking out of it? i'm thinking there is no real inside difference to them. thanks.

 

[NOX4ME]

ok i have some parts ordered but tell me why did you choose a different oil fill cap and not use the one on the car? the one you use is rounded and looks taller than the original or was it because it looks easier to remove and install with a pvc sticking out of it? i'm thinking there is no real inside difference to them. thanks.

The cap needed to be modified with a 0.750" hole to accept the PCV. The OE cap made it difficult to perform this operation. That's why I chose to use a Stant replacement.

 

[corvairbob]

ok got it. i had to do that also after i asked you about it. mine is one of those that has the finger rodges and so i noticed that after i sent this message. so now we are on the same page. i have the car apart for rings and timing chain and so i drilled the intake down under that #4 cylinder runner and now it is right above the starter batter wires. i ran the hose up arond to the left of the tb and back to the oil fill cap. i will find out how it works as soon as i get the engine back together and running. thanks, bp

 

[NOX4ME]

ok i have some parts ordered but tell me why did you choose a different oil fill cap and not use the one on the car? the one you use is rounded and looks taller than the original or was it because it looks easier to remove and install with a pvc sticking out of it? i'm thinking there is no real inside difference to them. thanks.

The factory oil cap would require much more modifications to make it work.

 

[corvairbob]

i did this hack and it didn't work for me. oil use went down but never stopped. was 1 qt a week now 1 qt every 2 weeks. new everything a complete rebuild and this hack and still using oil. it may work for some but not for me. darn.

 

[Gmcdean]

ok can some here tell me what is the reason for oil use on the 2013 2.4? it has 180k on it now is it rings seals or valve seals? i have the engine down for timing chain repairs and had to redrill out the exhaust manifold bolt at the water pump. but my girl is complaining of oil use. so if it is valve seals i guess now would be the time to take the cams out and take the springs out one at a time and just put in new seals.

if it is rings outside of pulling the head and taking the ridge out and pulling the piston's and just installing new rings will high mileage type oil help? or maybe some snake oil additive might help? it looks like it may have had good oil pressure as the oil pump looks like now with no groves and the timing chain broke so bad that the oil pickup was full and she did not get any ecm codes for low oil. nor the oil light. so if the oil use is mostly rings would just putting in new rings do any good without actually boring out the cylinders? i really do not want to get that far into a rebuild, but guess at this point i can pull the head and pistons and re ring it. being the pan is off for oil pickup cleaning.

also how do the valves on this engine hold up. i guess if i did pull the head and did rings i could send the head out for a valve job. so can anyone lend some advice on these questions for me. thanks bp.

Check for special coverage?

 

[corvairbob]

thanks i did no coverage according to the local dealer. plus we got it from a dealer so if it had any coverage i think they would have fixied it before the sale. i did ask them about any recalls being fixed before she got it.

 

[Gmcdean]

Sorry to hear. Usually it seems to be cylinders(don't take my word on that) When the time ng chain broke did it shatter apart or hopefully mostly intact? Also just in case do your own research on special coverage. R u in US or Canada?

 

[corvairbob]

the chain didn't break but teh guides did. 2 times. but the kid failed to check the oil and i ahd to do it again for the timing chain. the vvt phasers were ok and the soleniodes were find also i did not redor the alancers or assoiated parts there. jsut the timing chain and tensioner and guides. she told me yesterday it still uses some oil but not s bad as it was. i did do that one YT that puts a pvc valve in the oil cap so the block does not build up pressure and force it out the seals or even into the intake thru that sorry ported pvc they installed. you would thenk gm would have learned when they did that on the corvair and it failed bad. i have one and if i run less that 40wt oil is sucks it like a diesel.

i'm in the us thanks