2005 Equinox Fuel Pump
- Thread starter Helene74
- Start date
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dietz4ibanez
Admin
Sounds like that need to do a reflash and look into the transmission. Maybe run a diagnosis on it.
What is reflash? I did take it to a transmission shop and they put a diagnostic machine on it...that's when the error code came up....no signal--engine speed circuit (or something)..then I took it to the mechanic who did diagnostic and came up with the speed sensor....
dietz4ibanez
Admin
Normally all they do is run a scan on the pcm/ecm and check for updates and install them if any.
The fun continues. I took my car into a tranmission shop as it is still having shifting issues after the one place replaced the speed sensor. The following error codes came up: PO128 Coolant Thermostat, PO404 EGR (I think) Feed Back, Single out of range, PO442 EVAC small leak, PO449 EVAC sys. vent control circuit low....
I would imagine the EVAC could cause horrible fuel mileage? Will any of these cause a "slow shift" or "delay" in transmission? I can not figure this out. I had the one shop run a diagnostic on it for the same problem and that is why they replaced the speed sensor.
Are these horribly expensive things to fix? Someone told me the thermostat problem is about a $ 150 job..is that about right?
Any insight or help is appreciated--as always.
I would imagine the EVAC could cause horrible fuel mileage? Will any of these cause a "slow shift" or "delay" in transmission? I can not figure this out. I had the one shop run a diagnostic on it for the same problem and that is why they replaced the speed sensor.
Are these horribly expensive things to fix? Someone told me the thermostat problem is about a $ 150 job..is that about right?
Any insight or help is appreciated--as always.
dietz4ibanez
Admin
I would hope the thermostat would be that or less. Its normally a $40 or less part.. V8's are more like $15-20 for that part...
I just hope that they get this stuff figured out for you! I hate repairs as we all do but sometimes I would just like to know what I am up against as I am sure you are.
I just hope that they get this stuff figured out for you! I hate repairs as we all do but sometimes I would just like to know what I am up against as I am sure you are.
dietz4ibanez
Admin
I really couldn't say but I am interested to find out as I am sure you are! When do you think your mechanic will take a look at it?
I am calling a friend's mechanic tomorrow to see if he can fix the problems. I have the error codes and everything so hopefully he can fix it based on those findings. I will surely keep you appraised. I hope this will fix the problems.
dietz4ibanez
Admin
Yeah, Definitely keep us updated as I am hoping theses aren't huge ticket items for repairs.
Hi all. Well, getting increasingly frustrated by these issues and the impossible task of finding someone who can actually fix it.
So, if a thermostat is bad....does that cause and drivability issues? Will the EVAC system problems cause any symptoms of "rough" shifting or jerking? EGR valve? Sometimes when I drive and go to slow down, it "jerks" really hard when it shifts---the transmission shop claims there are no error codes that come up in the transmission...
Any suggestions?
So, if a thermostat is bad....does that cause and drivability issues? Will the EVAC system problems cause any symptoms of "rough" shifting or jerking? EGR valve? Sometimes when I drive and go to slow down, it "jerks" really hard when it shifts---the transmission shop claims there are no error codes that come up in the transmission...
Any suggestions?
dietz4ibanez
Admin
Normally I would only replace the Thermostat when the vehicle is overheating and the system is fool of coolant. Meaning your car is "Not" overheating but the gauge is telling you that it is..
I am not a mechanic but it sounds like the evac system leak needs to be fixed and this might be fixed by replacing the EGR.
Does it seem that the engine surges when the car jerks? I was wondering if it was a timing issue but it seems not to be from my perspective.
I am not a mechanic but it sounds like the evac system leak needs to be fixed and this might be fixed by replacing the EGR.
Does it seem that the engine surges when the car jerks? I was wondering if it was a timing issue but it seems not to be from my perspective.
dietz4ibanez
Admin
Yeah I don't think there is a problem with your thermostat.
I would start with the Evac issues and get that EGR valve replaced. Get someone to delete the codes and drive 30-40 miles along your normal driving to see what codes come back and go from there.
I would plan on a full tune up but once some of these issues are resolved.
I would start with the Evac issues and get that EGR valve replaced. Get someone to delete the codes and drive 30-40 miles along your normal driving to see what codes come back and go from there.
I would plan on a full tune up but once some of these issues are resolved.
Lenn
New member
If a thermostat is bad, it can seem like its running normal but get poor fuel economy or even run a little poorly due to running too rich.
Basically, a thermostat is designed to open/close at certain coolant temperatures depending on the specifications needed for that vehicle (usually around ~180-195*). If it sticks open, for instance- the coolant will not get hot enough and the vehicle will not reach normal operating temperature, thereby staying in what's called "open loop" (warm up mode so to speak) where the vehicles computers do use the sensors to run the car, but not effectively. It runs the car through a series of programmed defaults "hoping" to hit that magic 14.6:1 air/fuel ratio. Due to the lack of communication from the below listed sensors, it never really knows.
In closed loop the computer takes information in from the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, IAT (intake air temp) sensors, coolant temp sensors etc.... to get the information it needs to run clean and efficient. The reason you have open loop is the oxygen sensors won't work until they are at least 600 degrees farenhiet, therefore it has to run on programmed settings until they warm up. As stated above, the oxygen sensors work hand in hand with IAT, ECT and MAF sensors.
This all about as clear as mud? I'm sure I could have explained it better, that that's the gist anyway.
Here's a good article to read that keeps it reletively easy to understand. I know it applies to Fords, but you get the point.
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/0607mmfp_ford_efi_system_tuning/fuel_control.html
Basically, a thermostat is designed to open/close at certain coolant temperatures depending on the specifications needed for that vehicle (usually around ~180-195*). If it sticks open, for instance- the coolant will not get hot enough and the vehicle will not reach normal operating temperature, thereby staying in what's called "open loop" (warm up mode so to speak) where the vehicles computers do use the sensors to run the car, but not effectively. It runs the car through a series of programmed defaults "hoping" to hit that magic 14.6:1 air/fuel ratio. Due to the lack of communication from the below listed sensors, it never really knows.
In closed loop the computer takes information in from the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, IAT (intake air temp) sensors, coolant temp sensors etc.... to get the information it needs to run clean and efficient. The reason you have open loop is the oxygen sensors won't work until they are at least 600 degrees farenhiet, therefore it has to run on programmed settings until they warm up. As stated above, the oxygen sensors work hand in hand with IAT, ECT and MAF sensors.
This all about as clear as mud? I'm sure I could have explained it better, that that's the gist anyway.
Here's a good article to read that keeps it reletively easy to understand. I know it applies to Fords, but you get the point.
http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/0607mmfp_ford_efi_system_tuning/fuel_control.html
dietz4ibanez
Admin
Good stuff Lenn! :waytogo:
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